Aceto balsamico: the product of a lot of patience

The must from specially grown grape varieties is reduced by slowly cooking, say simmering, to half or sometimes a third of its volume. After a year of fermentation and souring, this cooked must (mosto cotto) embarks on a long journey from youthful to luscious ripeness. This is done by transferring from one wooden barrel to another, each made of a different type of wood to add its own aromas to the slowly concentrated liquid. 
This traditionally takes place under the roofs of all kinds of houses in the northern Italian region. Amongst those of ordinary families, but also under the orange tiled roof  of the Este Palace in the centre of Modena. Here the ducal ' acetaia ' flourished in the 18th century. Extreme temperatures and climate contribute to the ripening process as the aceto balsamic vinegar. It concentrates through evaporation during the stifling summer heat and the restful ripening in cold, clammy winters.
This highly perfumed concoction should be used with respect for its qualities: a few drops in a salad with fresh garden herbs or on crispy chicory; a little drizzle over homemade vanilla ice cream. A scant teaspoon swirled in the cooking juices of some simple grilled or baked meat, or perhaps as a last-minute addition to a hearty strawberry salad with spring onion and cucumber. A careful dosage in a liqueur glass ensures a pleasant digestion and is a reminder of its medicinal use in the distant past. Hence the name: a cure for everything!


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