Production of this washed-rind Bergundy cheese, popular in the early 20th century, had died out by the end of the Second World War. Fortunately, fromagier Monsieur Berthaut revived its production in 1954. Dubbed the ‘King of Cheeses’ and indeed rumoured to have been Napoleon’s favourite, this cheese has such a strong smell it is banned from public transport in France! The rind is washed with Marc de Bourgogne brandy and is a delicacy in its own right.